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This was supposed to be a ride report!

first day for ages that the temp wasn't around freezing and I was at home and had nothing else planned for the afternoon. Quick ride I says to meself,  get a few miles in before curfew... 

"Oh" said Pooh, " I'll just replace Tigger's broken rear indicator before going out, cos it's dangling and we don't like dangling, do we?" 

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 I discovered it Dangling a few days ago and had picked up a new one from Triumph in Dijon yesterday. 

Replace an indicator... quick job you'd think... I could do this on the transalp in about 10 minutes ( having had plenty practice at dropping the tralp and breaking them) It's fixed on with one allen head bolt threaded into an insert or a clip inside, and the two electrical connectors under the seat...right... WRONG! 

I lifted the seat to find that the wiring is all hidden away under the rear fairing thingy and I can't get to it AND the allen bolt is not threaded into a captive clip but into a nut that is clearly turning with it and that I can't reach either.

"POO" said Pooh, "I'll have to take the rear rack / topbox carrier off to access behind the rear light."

So, 4 bolts to remove the luggage rack, easy right... WRONG...IMG_1632.thumb.JPG.31d5bbbd0b396caeb8a5ab5371a9b7ea.JPG

4 bolts ringed in red were so tight I fucked the 12mm 1/8" drive socked getting the second one undone, obviously you cant get a spanner to them and I only have my smallest socket set with me.  " Bollocks" said Pooh, as he realised he was going to have to drive to work to pick up his toolbox. So 40km and 45minutes later, with a proper 1/2" drive 12mmsocket and 6" ratchet I managed to get all 4 bolts out but they were obviously heavily overtightened when fitted. 

That's the 4 bolts out then... yep, but wait...what's this? below the sliding rack for the topbox is the original rack, with 4 more bolts ( ringed in yellow) 10mm this time and though dry and tight they drew with some progressive force but only needed the little socket and drive. 

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Lift off the rack and.... OH FFS! 

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Another plate with 2 more 12mm bolts ( ringed in blue). remember this is all in order to access 1 electrical connection and 1 nut for the indicator. 

Big socket out again, first one waaaaaay tighter than it ever should be, 2nd one...I didn't even need the ratchet handle...🤢 

" FECK!" said Pooh, and swore loudly whilst throwing his toys out of the pram 🤬

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That's not normal!   the bolt on the right came out first and the one on the left, from the marked hole, basically snapped as soon as I touched it.

Not being a particularly patient bear, Pooh threw a wobbler at this point and sulked so hard that he didn't take any more pictures 🤣

 so I removed the passenger handle which left me with about 2mm of bolt proud of the frame, not enough to grab, or cut into, but luckily the broken surface was quite flat so a centre punch and a 3,5 and then 4,5 drill bit came into play, I only had a 6mm "easy out" in my box so that wasn't going to work but the easing oil I had applied earlier and the heat generated by drilling loosened it sufficiantly so that an old 4mm flatblade scredriver could be hammered into the hole I'd drilled into the bolt and used to twist the broken bolt end out.  I was also lucky that I had an 8mm x 60mm stainless bolt in a box of bits in the shed that I could replace the broken one with. I replaced the indicator, checked it worked, and then put it all back together ( with a little grease on the bolt threads and not having a torque wrench, tightened to " contact + 1/4 turn" 

it was then nearly curfew time so I just managed to ride to the car wash and back, as I'd put it away dirty last time. 

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This was supposed to be a ride report! first day for ages that the temp wasn't around freezing and I was at home and had nothing else planned for the afternoon. Quick ride I says to meself,  get

Interestingly, or not, I had another Busted bolt yesterday but at work and when I discovered it it was lucky thay my "Technician" is off sick ( skiving since 6th June 2020) or he would have a) got pun

I instantly thought of you when I felt that bolt let go! 🤣

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2 minutes ago, Grasshopper's Ride said:

I feel your pain!  🥴

The broken bolt blues is a little tune I was singing a few months ago! 

At least your bike is clean and ready for next time.... :littleguy:

I instantly thought of you when I felt that bolt let go! 🤣

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54 minutes ago, Catteeclan said:

A lot of rust, bit of a water trap going on there.
Well done for keeping reasonably calm.

well I didn't punch anybody 🤣

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23 minutes ago, Sir Fallsalot said:

Nice recovery @MooN its such a good feeling when snapped things come out :littleguy:

I was lucky. 

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Most manufacturers overbuild stuff like that now Chris, that's why I like my DR650 so much, easy to fix most anything on there.  I fear my Tenere is going to be a lot like your Tigger.

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Yesterday I took it all apart again.  The bolt that I had available and used was a slot headed machine screw. The original bolt was a Hex head so There was on hex head bolt and one slot headed machine screw in there and though out of sight, it Irked me, so I got a couple of 8x70 A2 stainless bolts and a couple of 8x50 of the same, a couple of stainless washers and as I had some spare time wednesday afternoon I removed the offending bolt and tried the 8x50, which was too short, and the 8x 70 was too long.  I cut down the 8x70 to make and 8x60 and fitted that, with it's washer. I then realised that my 8 mmbol has a 13mm hex head and the original one has a 12mm hex head.  This being the sort of thing that drives me round the twist when I come across it at work, I cut down the 2nd 8x70 and fitted that as well so there are two identical stainless bolts now.  @skyrider  I work on boats,  force of habit means all bolts were greased before being refitted 👍

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25 minutes ago, MooN said:

Yesterday I took it all apart again.  The bolt that I had available and used was a slot headed machine screw. The original bolt was a Hex head so There was on hex head bolt and one slot headed machine screw in there and though out of sight, it Irked me, so I got a couple of 8x70 A2 stainless bolts and a couple of 8x50 of the same, a couple of stainless washers and as I had some spare time wednesday afternoon I removed the offending bolt and tried the 8x50, which was too short, and the 8x 70 was too long.  I cut down the 8x70 to make and 8x60 and fitted that, with it's washer. I then realised that my 8 mmbol has a 13mm hex head and the original one has a 12mm hex head.  This being the sort of thing that drives me round the twist when I come across it at work, I cut down the 2nd 8x70 and fitted that as well so there are two identical stainless bolts now.  @skyrider  I work on boats,  force of habit means all bolts were greased before being refitted 👍

steve coogan shrug GIF

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20 hours ago, MooN said:

I work on boats,  force of habit means all bolts were greased before being refitted

Oh, you do, do you. Next question. How do you compensate for torque settings then because you know they change if you grease them. It's a thing, it's called nut factor and also there is breakout factor with friction and tension coefficients. Do you torque then go gorilla? Or do you have a more scientific approach? Are you a copper, nickel or molybdinum sulphide lube'r and what K factor to you add to it? Does your additional required K cause galling of the threads or overtension the bolt? It's a facinating science it must be said.

I am much more mundane, I just stick to the dry torque and then paint the cunt. Much easier it has to be said.

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34 minutes ago, Bruce said:

How do you compensate for torque settings then because you know they change if you grease them. It's a thing, it's called nut factor and also there is breakout factor with friction and tension coefficients. Do you torque then go gorilla? Or do you have a more scientific approach? Are you a copper, nickel or molybdinum sulphide lube'r and what K factor to you add to it? Does your additional required K cause galling of the threads or overtension the bolt? It's a facinating science it must be said.

steve coogan shrug GIF

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2 hours ago, Bruce said:

Oh, you do, do you. Next question. How do you compensate for torque settings then because you know they change if you grease them. It's a thing, it's called nut factor and also there is breakout factor with friction and tension coefficients. Do you torque then go gorilla? Or do you have a more scientific approach? Are you a copper, nickel or molybdinum sulphide lube'r and what K factor to you add to it? Does your additional required K cause galling of the threads or overtension the bolt? It's a facinating science it must be said.

I am much more mundane, I just stick to the dry torque and then paint the cunt. Much easier it has to be said.

  You remind me of the marine architect who drew the plans for an RNLI boarding boat we built when I was training, He'd decreed that the "stations" ( temporary forms around which the hull planking is done before fitting the frames and floors) were to be at  85.71428 cm apart.  The master shipwright's first comment was " shall we tell him that we wrok to 1/8th of an inch tolerance...?" :rofl: the difference between theory and practice, 

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 2 tools only, WD40 and gaffer tape. 

If it moves and shouldn't, use the gaffer tape, if it doesn't move but should, use the WD40. 👍

 

 I actually dont grease things with WD40 , I have a pot of marine grease. 

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Interestingly, or not, I had another Busted bolt yesterday but at work and when I discovered it it was lucky thay my "Technician" is off sick ( skiving since 6th June 2020) or he would have a) got punched and b) got an official warning for " Faute professionel" (three af them and you're out).

This is what I was working on. planned oil and gearbox oil change, oil filters, fuel filters, air filter and belts, then sort the oil leak which I have traced to the oil pressure guage senders on the side of the block then clean the whole thing properly which obviously hasn't been done for some time.

IMG_1659.thumb.JPG.d788e7a77d869fcdaefc5613871a0fc4.JPG 

 Note the excellent designof the hydraulic pump on the front of the main pulley, you have to remove the bloody thing to change either belt...( that's why the bolts are half out)

When I looked at changing the alternator belts, I found this set up on the lower alternator:

IMG_1658.thumb.JPG.3678a02c81b01b117e4f371f059f4c79.JPG

The whole thing was waaay out of alignement and clearly not correctly fitted. A while back I found two green painted bolts and a bush on my desk, with no explanation of where they came from... now I know. This is clearly a large dose of taking the piss and "don't give a shit'ism and means that my "technicien" if he ever returns to work, clearly cannot be trusted and is therefore worthless to us.  

I retrieved the bolts from my box of " That looks specific, I wont throw it away" bits and spent an hour removing the sh!t, changeing the belts, refiting the correct bolts and spacer and realigning the whole. ( all torqued down to "two white knuckles" 👍)

this is what it should look like 

2135854935_IMG_1659(2).JPG.12da06a366c821ffaa74d6179119f519.JPG

 

 

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You know what they say, if you want it done properly do it yourself..............................................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

obviously this doesn't apply if Pete is near to the spanners 🤣

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Ah ha! I notice all bar a couple bolts are painted. Excellent work Moon. Remember to touch up when you're finished 👌

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2 hours ago, MooN said:

Interestingly, or not, I had another Busted bolt yesterday but at work and when I discovered it it was lucky thay my "Technician" is off sick ( skiving since 6th June 2020) or he would have a) got punched and b) got an official warning for " Faute professionel" (three af them and you're out).

This is what I was working on. planned oil and gearbox oil change, oil filters, fuel filters, air filter and belts, then sort the oil leak which I have traced to the oil pressure guage senders on the side of the block then clean the whole thing properly which obviously hasn't been done for some time.

IMG_1659.thumb.JPG.d788e7a77d869fcdaefc5613871a0fc4.JPG 

 Note the excellent designof the hydraulic pump on the front of the main pulley, you have to remove the bloody thing to change either belt...( that's why the bolts are half out)

When I looked at changing the alternator belts, I found this set up on the lower alternator:

IMG_1658.thumb.JPG.3678a02c81b01b117e4f371f059f4c79.JPG

The whole thing was waaay out of alignement and clearly not correctly fitted. A while back I found two green painted bolts and a bush on my desk, with no explanation of where they came from... now I know. This is clearly a large dose of taking the piss and "don't give a shit'ism and means that my "technicien" if he ever returns to work, clearly cannot be trusted and is therefore worthless to us.  

I retrieved the bolts from my box of " That looks specific, I wont throw it away" bits and spent an hour removing the sh!t, changeing the belts, refiting the correct bolts and spacer and realigning the whole. ( all torqued down to "two white knuckles" 👍)

this is what it should look like 

2135854935_IMG_1659(2).JPG.12da06a366c821ffaa74d6179119f519.JPG

 

 

steve coogan shrug GIF

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